Chorney-Booth: The Unicorn goes back to basics with new location in Mission (2024)

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Sometimes our favourite institutions can change without losing the essence of what they are. This has been the case for The Unicorn, the pub on Stephen Avenue that has existed in some form or another since 1979 (I’ll spare you from doing the math — it turns 45 next year). Originally opened by the Irish Rovers and named after that group’s signature song, the pub has gone through many iterations over the years, with the current three-storey “Superpub” version sitting on Stephen Avenue, just steps from the original location in the Lancaster Building, which is now home to the Simons store.

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After transforming to the Superpub in 2016, it seemed like The Unicorn could rest easy with its three floors of brews and pub fare, but earlier this year the current owner group — Mark and Brenda Jennings, Wendy Irvine, Paul Worby and Taylor Magee-Worby — got the itch to expand further. Wanting to extend the traditional pub vibes of the original Unicorn to a more neighbourhood-like setting, the group took over a standalone building in Mission that was once home to Candela Lounge and most recently the short-lived College Bar, turning it into the new Unicorn on 4.

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At approximately 150 seats (plus a patio coming for next summer) The Unicorn on 4 is significantly smaller than the Superpub location; think of it as a homier, “where everybody knows your name” version of the Stephen Avenue stalwart. The room has been repainted in The Unicorn’s traditional colours and looks like a reliable old-school pub, with a large bar staffed by friendly bartenders, plenty of tables, and a fleet of televisions for sports fans. It’s a pub: nothing more, nothing less, which is exactly what the owners intended.

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“I don’t want to be a part of the new ‘in spot,’ because those always have to change,” Worby says. “We want to be a staple where people can be comfortable at all times. I want people to feel like they’ve walked into their house and not into a restaurant.”

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But The Unicorn on 4 is indeed a restaurant and, despite positioning itself primarily as a bar, is a pretty good one at that, with chef Brett McIntyre overseeing the kitchens at both locations. McIntyre’s experience in higher-end restaurants translates to a menu full of dishes that largely fall into the category of pub grub, though executed with a noticeable level of skill and thoughtfulness. You’ve still got what the owners claim to be the best wings ($16) and nachos ($25) in town, and while there’s nothing wrong with sticking to those sure-fire pub favourites, it’s also worth trying the ultra-tender short rib yorkies with just a drizzle of horseradish aioli ($16.50), a luxurious lamb burger topped with a blueberry shallot compote and brie ($18), and, surprisingly enough, wor wonton soup with pork belly and steamed egg noodles ($18). It’s a vast menu that mirrors that of the Superpub, save for the swapping out of pizza in favour of flatbreads to not to step on the toes of the numerous pizzerias in and around Mission.